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At Home With The Guy With The Hand

Shady Colours

This blog was going to be a gripe, given a special category all to itself, hidden somewhere-off-to-the-side. Let’s face it, the ramblings of a menopausal male are best kept hidden, out of sight, deniable. The inspiration had all the ingredients for a non-glamourous investigation into the world of interior design, where common sense often flies out the window as marble kitchens are flown in. It was just supposed to be a minor, steam-releasing moment, until I realised why naming a paint ‘Spanked Bottom,’ so annoyed me.

You see, I love colour in all its variations, its shades, tones, tints, and hues. My gene makeup generously allows my eyes to filter through the visible light spectrum and distinguish the tiniest differences in light frequencies. Colour-blindness would be a nightmare scenario for me. The idea of not absorbing the full impact of vibrant works of art, the delicate intricacies of a starling’s amazing plumage, a busy bee working hard to extract pollen from the heart of a flower is a concept too large for my brain to absorb. The notion that some people will never distinguish between the bright yellows, deep purples, or darkest reds found on the stamen of flowers is enough to make me sigh. Flowers, after all, offer such a wide variety of primal, vivid, and luscious colours as to leave one practically speechless.

My awareness of colour probably began in the late sixties when floral patterns abounded in the world of fashion, when orange was the new black, and tie-dye was a rage that had managed to migrate thousands of miles, from the West Coast of the USA, all the way to Portlaoise.

Awareness does not mean that I loved the psychedelic antics of filmmakers or fashion designers back then. It was as though they had all learned only one rule in college, the rule of complementary colours. Then, stealing only this tiny fraction from Johannes Itten’s seminal work in the field, they streamed onto the streets like four-year-olds clutching their latest toys. Unfortunately, their investigations into the world of light were as shallow as their insights. And armed only with colour wheels they did not wholly understand, using the only rule their minds could half-way comprehend, they delved the world into a garish, visually clamorous universe. Clothes of the time were suddenly patterned from washed-out oranges set against undistinguished blues.     

But maybe we can forgive them, this was the late sixties afterall, a time where technical aspiration had yet to fulfil on its promise. However, this was not as true of colour as you might suspect looking at photographs from the era. The creation of colour pigments had been mastered by the mid-twentieth century. Even if the paints themselves were still chemically toxic the colours were pure. 

     Having said that, the printing of colours onto fabrics has often been hit and miss. It is as though not all colours are created equal when it comes to the dyeing process. This maybe why, as a child, the Irish flag baffled me. From a colour point of view, what was it supposed to be? Green, white and gold, as we were told by a gold-fáinne-wearing Christian brother? Or green, white, and orange, as my freedom-fighter grandfather declared? It did not help that half the Irish flags I saw had a bright yellow stripe, while the more official flags had an orange one. At the time I put the difference down to weathering and cheap dyes, as opposed to a deep denial among republicans that anything orange might possibly exist on the island of Ireland.

Colour is important. Flags attest to this, which is why they never stray far from prime colours. But what of the lesser ones, those which add comfort to a living room and restfulness to a bedroom? Everybody has their own idea on what works for them, or what might impress their neighbours, or a real-estate agent. But, when faced with a multitude of charts, most people still panic. Postage stamp colour strips are not enough to win over the heart and minds of vacillating homeowners. Painters are often booked before colours are decided upon. Then it is decision time. Panic gives way to desperation, logic takes a hike, signs are sought at the bottom of a teacup and mystics often offer as much hope as a colour consultant does. At this crunch point, when at your most vulnerable, the name of the paint may be the ultimate persuader. The decision maker.

And that name may very well come from a marketing company somewhere. This is where the world goes black, where darkness rules, where little men pun. Together with irony-filled women these cynics sit down and desperately pretend to have discovered a potential client’s unique selling point. This is where they argue their case, where they shout each other down to win a contract and get to name your paint. If only you could silence marketing executives: but then, a silent marketing executive would be an oxymoron.

Shakespeare asked, ‘What’s in a name?’ Marketing men would argue, everything. To them the rose is an insignificant thing, the petals invisible and the scent ignorable. The only thought on their minds is how to trademark the word and deprive others the use of it. To them, branding is everything. And while Pavlov could have predicted how some people would salivate at the sight of a dinner plate heading in their direction, he could never have foretold the visceral response of marketing people to the thoughts of new corporate accounts and the performance-based bonuses they promise.

It is as a result of their work that half of Dublin 4 is smothering in ‘Elephant’s Breath,’ a colour so beige as to offend nobody. This over-hyped colour pigment promised so much when I first heard of it from a fashion-conscious, social-climbing lawyer. Having heard the name, but not seen the paint, my imagination was ready for a murky brown at the very minimum, with a large hint of fuggy green, but, no, it’s beige. Am I the only one calling it as it is? Asking why the king has no clothes? Only to be told that he wears the most magnificent suit ever designed by man. Maybe it is time that somebody told him that he is naked, completely exposed for all to see, and pot-bellied at that. But, so long as marketing men sell sizzle, not sausages; sex appeal, not deodorants; freedom, not cars; silliness, not pigment, any hopes of sanity entering the equation any time soon are very low.  

These thoughts led me to reverse the normal process of creating a product in need of a name, and instead to wonder what colours marketing men would come up with to match these names, ‘Eve’s Shame?’ ‘Adam’s Apple?’ ‘Botox Eyes?’ And what would they make of, ‘Crocodile Tears?’

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At Home With Notes From The Kitchen The Guy With The Hand

Humble Potato Pie

A special thanks to Fiona Mallin for allowing me use this birthday inspired blog and to Audry O’Reilly for the anotomically correct illustration of a potato.

For me, the dinner table has always been as much about boisterous conversation as it has been about food. Reeled in from the four corners of the house as teenagers, my siblings and I were expected to be excited by ideas and to contribute to dinner table discussions. These could be on the issues of the day; the need to understand history and why it was important; novelists and their contribution to literature; crime novels with their twists and turns; the lives of poets when compared to their poetry. There was also much animated discussion of drama and dramatists, one of my father’s favourite topics. The only thing we did not discuss at the table was food itself. But somewhere on my journey through life food became important to me. If certain anecdotes are to be believed, this happened early. It seems, that by four, I objected to the taste of gravy made from the same water which had boiled the carrots.   

There were cookbooks everywhere about our living room. These migrated from one table to another as my mother looked things up, wrote down recipes for friends or, simply, savoured the idea of eating some extravagant dish or other. All these books were filled with slips of newspaper cut-outs. These contained new recipes, the latest in culinary ideas, and trendy, party foods. It came as no surprise, therefore, when my sister told me that she was putting together a cookbook to celebrate a friend’s birthday. She was collecting personal memories from family members and acquaintances and hoped to interleave them with recipes for her friend. This was to be a very personal cookbook and she wanted me to contribute. After a little brainstorming all my ideas were dismissed, so I decided to dedicate this blog about the humble potato to Fiona, who I hope enjoys reading it as much as I enjoy writing it.

It may seem like an opt out, an Irish cliché to talk about the potato. To even mention something so mundane to a reader of Sunday supplements could almost be classified as a criminal offence these days. To write a complete article about our starchy friend for an accomplished cook, might even be classified by some as a capital offence. But it is not a crime to talk food to a cook. We love to share more than a meal and a bottle of wine. Just as physicists get excited by muons we salivate at the thoughts of everything gastronomic from layered flavours to raw ingredients.

You may think that the potato offers nothing to talk about and that once I have discussed Boxty, Chomp, or Colcannon have exhausted all the spud has to offer. However, that is to underestimate this versatile tuber. And as for the potato being only an only Irish staple, think again.   Ever since Christopher Columbus returned from “India” with this new vegetable, Europeans have slavishly worked on branding the potato with their unique, national mark. The Russian Banana sounds interesting, until you realise that it is not a tropical fruit but an oddly shaped spud. The King Edward is not only a cigar, but also a potato, determined to identify with its country of origin. The Duke of York is another piece of chauvinism, as is the French Fingerling. And when it comes to the Irish potato, we had a gem of a spud in the 18th century which the patriots of the time let down when it came to naming. Instead of the St. Patrick or, perhaps, the Finn Mac Camhaill (Mc Cool,) our legendary hero, the potato became known as the Irish Lumpy. It seems that the marketing men of the time had never heard the adage, when marketing a sausage, you sell the sizzle, not the porky bits. 

Audry O’Reilly

This versatile tuber comes in many forms, waxy or starchy, boiled or baked, roasted, or mashed; for every need there is a spud. Whether your tastes run to Duchesse Potatoes, or you simply like your potatoes boiled and steamed, a knob of butter melting down its sides, with a parsley garnish to top it off; I bet that your thoughts never stray from the savoury to the sweet. I am not talking about the sweet potato, technically a yam, I mean using the potato as the main ingredient in a dessert.

I have seen chefs pour rhubarb into a potato well. But they were not intentionally creating a dessert. They were using the rhubarb as an extra taste in a savoury dish, in the way an apple sauce is used with pork. I am talking about replacing the pavlova with potato. I agree, it sounds improbable, but that is what one Victorian, Irish housewife apparently did. Sadly, the recipe for this dessert still exists as it was recorded in the kitchen cookbook and passed down the generations. It shows the importance of not recording our mistakes. Check out some YouTube cooking videos if you doubt me on this. Anybody following some of these would-be tv-chefs are doomed to a bad case of indigestion at the very least.

The inventor of this dessert lived in a time when ice cream was a seasonal treat and when strawberries had a two-week window in June. But it was also a time of scientific investigation. A revolution was underway, which could be why this innovative woman strayed from the tried and tested Bread and Butter Pudding, dismissed the Spotted Dick, and had an aversion to milk puddings.

We will never know what drove her down the road to potential infamy. Maybe, she had enough French to have heard the phrase pomme de terre and, being inquisitive, she wondered how stewed apple would compare with the apple of the earth.

Whatever drove her, she would soon have realised the mammoth task ahead. And she did not have the industrial might which could eventually have led to a successful conclusion. (It takes huge resources, afterall, to milk a nut.) While she may have asked herself, if an omelette can be both sweet or savoury, why then not the potato? She evidently did not wait for an answer to reveal itself, because the answers are both obvious and plentiful.

The first objection would have been that of texture, which for a spud is undisguisable. No amount of sugar and lemon can hide the origin of such a dessert.  And no matter how heroic the effort in the kitchen, the presentation of such a dessert presents problems. Should it be served hot, or cold? For instance. Hot, lemony, mashed potato does not sound good; cold sounds even worse. Also, imagine it in a bowl before you. What do you see? You see potato, with the jaundiced, unappetising appeal of cold turnip. Is there any way to give it eye-appeal?

Thankfully, nobody ever picked up on the idea of a spuddy dessert, the recipe remained hidden in a family archive for 150 years and the inventive housewife was never ridiculed for her starchy experiments. Today, Ireland’s most famous mashed potato dish is still Colcannon. We may argue over the name when it comes to kale, or scallions, but we do not argue about its taste. It is crunchy and savoury, all the things you expect from a potato dish. It is not a dessert, nor a gold mine -some parents hid pennies in Colcannon when I was a kid. Not that I ever needed bribing to rip into a plate of lemon-free unsweetened spuds. However, it would take a considerable bribe before I pondered a dessert trolly, at the end of a substantial meal, and reached out for a Lemon Potato Pudding.